I typed this back in September and then forgot to actually post it… *sigh* Too busy SEWING, right? 🙂 Anyway, I wrote about my (then) most recent garb projects (including the orange houppelande):
One of the other fighters in the shire (Blackwater Keep — you’ve probably never heard of us even if you are a SCAdian because we’re a small group and until two or three years ago the group didn’t do much of anything) decided he wanted to start fencing, so of course the knight marshal for the shire (my husband) had to do it too, which meant he needed a fencing jacket… except he didn’t want an Elizabethan doublet like most fencers wear…
So since the last time I blogged about making SCA garb, one of the items I’ve made is a fencing coat: dark emerald fustian (the nice stuff, 100% cotton and so soft) lined in black broadcloth, with three layers of canvas in between for reinforcement. (I’ll post photos as soon as I have some.)
I’ve also made a lot of progress on my saffron-orange houppelande — did I even mention that I’m making one? It’s the same style as the pink velvet one, but light yellowish orange lined in white. BAG SLEEVES — I finally decided that this is the style I want, so I made a pattern for ’em before I could second-guess myself again. I LOVE HOW THESE SLEEVES LOOK! I’ll probably have to make deeper cartridge pleats at the wrist with the velvet houppelande because that fabric is thicker and there’s only so much that the fabric can be drawn up to fit a wristband — I almost couldn’t get 3/8th inch pleats to fit with the two layers of broadcloth.
I used the same flat-lining method for this that I used for the red silk cote I’m making for my husband. (I haven’t done any more work on it but I did at least figure out how to fix the problem with the shoulder width, so I’ll get back to it as soon as the immediate projects are done.) Also, I divided the four panels like the velvet into eight so I could make more efficient use of the fabric although it still took 10 YARDS of each 42-inch wide fabric to make this thing. I decided when I first started that I would face the hem instead of trying to fold it under and sew it as a regular hem because there’s just too much fabric there, plus the finished seams are a bit bulky for folding over twice. But then I remembered something I’d read onlline about stiffened/padded hems… so I sewed cotton quilt batting to the lower half of the 4-inch facing.
The houppelande is not quite 6 yards around the hem, so it’s not as full as some patterns/methods for this style of garment. That’s a good thing! If I’d made it a full circle I’d STILL be sewing the hem.
Also today… I cut out and basted the layers together for a green silk cote for my husband. (He says his SCA personna likes red, but the guy sure ends up with a lot more green. Including the fencing coat, this will be number 4.) It’s to go under a half-sleeved cote of a silvery- taupe velvet. (I should find out 15th-century German for “Don’t pet the Grendel” and embroider it on something my husband can wear… Seriously.)
Edit for February 26, 2020: I AM working on the red silk cote again, doing the facings on the sleeves today. The GREEN silk cote is complete except for the buttonholes. My husband intends to wear the red one at our shire’s Defender/Colleguim event in April, so I’m going to put the green one in the A&S display. Or maybe it will be the other way around since he may be wearing the green fustian fencing coat for part of the day, and the green silk one is made in the same style. Who knows? I’ll probably be wearing my dark red sideless gown with pale yellow under it — close enough to the shire’s colors without being TOO close — and if he wears red too we’ll sort of match. I’d wear the orange houppelande but it’s too long and full to run/walk quickly in, and I’m going to be VERY busy at that event…
(And sometime during all of this, I need to get back to my OTHER needlework projects, the ones that have nothing to do with the Society for Creative Anachronism.)